An Old-Time Story in Lovech

Georgi Georgiev

“Do you love theatre, my boy? If yes, get ready to watch now…because I will perform a real old-fashioned play for you. We should just pass through this wooden old door and we will go back in times as long as 100 years ago.
Look at this table, in the corner, where the old woman is kneading dough… Hey, missus let us treat this boy with our delicious meal…”

Those were the words, spoken to me by the slender middle-aged man, who met me at the entrance of the Ethnographic Museum in the city of Lovech. The man was dressed in worn out suite and had a washed out bowler hat on his head. He was describing situations and picturing old-time customs to me in a manner, I would never forget.

“And here the old woman will ask what to put in your clay pot…may be beans broth or fresh feta cheese with parsley and herbs“, the man continued on talking to me and the scenes started to come up clearly in front of my eyes as if I was there – back in the past. I could see the old woman, taking out bundles with bread from the built-in closet. I could imagine her cooking and almost felt the aromatic smell in the air, when the man tapped on my shoulder and showed me the little metal box. It had ancient print in letters, saying “Milka Suchard”. He explained to me that this was the first box with cocoa for drinking, which was imported in Bulgaria in the far away year of 1901.

That was the most fascinating walk in a museum I could ever think of. The man was playfully telling stories about the past, the history and the customs of the people, who used to live in the two houses of the nowadays museum building.
Lovech ethnographic museum is found in the Bulgarian National Revival Quarter of Varosha, at the foot of Hissarya Hill, where Hissarya Ancient Fortress is located. The expositions are arranged in two ancient houses, which used to be homes of the revolutionary Ivan Drasov and the musician Nencho Rashev. The Drasov’s House was built during the first century of the 19th century. The exposition represents the home of a wealthy trader’s family during the changing period from traditional national revival style of living to typical city style with Western European influence. The exponents are original and they have belonged to old Lovech families, who lived back in the end of the 19th century.

The other Rashev’s House was built in 1835. The exposition presents the style of living of an intelligent writer from the 30s and the 40s of the 20th Century. The house also hosts a special room, showing the daily routine of the girls, living in Lovech at that time. “Here you can see a girl, who is knitting”, the curator was telling, “Over there the girl is playing the piano, and this girl is reading a book. See how the girls used to have fun, when 100 years ago there was no Internet, no TV, and no radio” he kept on explaining.

In the ethnographic museum you can learn not only about the history of the both houses. Right after you go through the wooden door out the curator will show the hill and the fortress across and will say to you: “This ancient fortress was built back in Roman times, when in 1187 the Byzantine Empire signed a peace treaty with the brothers Asen and Peter, and this is actually the beginning of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom. The Fortress of Lovech is one of the last ones, seized by the Ottoman invaders. “In such fascinating manner the curator will keep on telling about big battles, glorious times, and brave leaders until you find that Lovech is getting more precious and cosy for you. Then you will be more than sure, that you will always want to visit it time after time, now and then.

At last the man will send you off to the gate, but this will not be the end of his stories. He will show a white house above the museum to you and will say: “A great Bulgarian man, born in Lovech used to live in that house. His destiny starts from here and this exact destiny brings him to space in 1977.” Well, every Bulgarian can guess that this man is the famous Bulgarian cosmonaut Georgi Ivanov. Probably not many know about the misadventures of the Rusian-Bulgarian crew during the flight, about the big failure on the board of the space ship and about the self control, the courage and the skills of the two pilots – Georgi Ivanov and Nikolay Rukavishnikov, who successfully landed “Soyoz 33” craft on Earth.

The curator of the museum will tell you the whole story, tap you on the shoulder, wish you “Good Luck” and will direct you to take the best sightseeing route. Up to the fortress hill, “Vassil Levski” Museum of History, “Saint Virgin Mary” Church, the Stratesh Park with the zoo, and of course the Covered Bridge of Kolio Ficheto. “Farewell, my boy” he will finally sees you off with smile on his face.

Ancient like the town, in his worn out suite and pale hat, the tall man will stay there, in the museum, keeping the secrets in his heart and telling interesting stories to you and may be many other visitors…
As for me – I am taking the road towards the fortress to see with my own eyes all these battles and brave men, the inspired curator told me about.