Momchilovtsi – the heart of Rodope Mountain

George Georgiev

I was in the middle of the road between Pamporovo and Smolyan in the small village Sokolovtsi when I saw the sign “Momchilivtsi” and I made my way to this Rodopean village. Sunbeams were playing through the front window of my car and the white – red martenichka hanged on the mirror playfully swayed. It was the 1st day of March, the next of my tour around the Rodope Mountain. Momchilovtsi village was my destination of the day.

I didn’t know what to expect but I was sure that it would be extremely beautiful. The weather was fine although I was a little disappointed of the lack of snow, because couldn’t see the famous snowboard centre of Momchilovtsi working. However, my admiration of the magnificent scenery grew, on my way up to the village. 5 minutes later I reached the sign that marks the entrance of the village. Rodopean girl dressed in a national costume, carrying a round loaf is drawn on the welcome sign. She was the first “person”, to meet me in the village. I saw the first building of the village, situated on a small hill, after I passed the first turn of the road. The large white houses of Momchilovtsi, standing in tiers, appeared right behind the height. Later I learned that Momchilovtsi is one of the biggest Rodopean villages with more than 550 houses located on 1000 m altitude.

I parked my car in front of the Municipality and the local community centre “Svetlina” (Light). It was founded in 1925. The church “St. St. Konstantin and Elena”, built in 1836, is also nearby situated. I was astonished to see a historical museum beside the temple. But there are many archeological finds found in the region, so the existence of such museum is logical. Also the Rodope Mountain is the land of Orpheus and the legendary local ruler Momchil the Hero, whose name was given to the village.

I continued my way on foot to completely feel the fascination of this site. The spring sun was shining on the slopes and the beams were reflected by the snow that was still preserved on the highest spots. The houses in the village were also dazzling. All of them are big, white and lovely, built by the famous Rodopean masons. Many of them were born in Momchilovtsi. People might think that the village is not more than 50 years old. But there are several old wooden buildings with adobe foundations and solid houses, made of hewn stone, with small windows, looking like defensive towers.

They sent me far in a distance of the time when the village was founded. According to the natives 500 years ago people from Smolyan came here to preserve their religion and customs from the Ottoman invaders. And they really succeeded. Momchilovtsi was kept as a pure Bulgarian village with intact manners and customs. Today it is waiting to meet everyone who is visiting this splendid region and its hospitable inhabitants. Almost every house offers guest rooms and tavern where visitors can taste home made dishes and thick red wines. I sincerely regretted the fact that I had no opportunity to stay in Momchilovtsi for the night, but next time I will certainly do this.

The rocks above the village, known as “Momchilov ridge” tempted me. After one hour of climbing and wandering around the secret paths I was on top. I was worn out but completely satisfied by the captivating view. The village front of me could be hardly seen, but in the distance there were meadows, woods, cattle–pens, Snezhanka peak and the TV Tower. Even before I came here, I knew that Momchilovtsi is famous with its very well developed tourist centre.

And it absolutely deserves its glory. The rocks offer perfect conditions for rock climbing; the region is favorable site for the skiers and snowboarders, who want to be far from the overcrowded runs in the big ski resorts, during the winter. The Rodope Mountain is a real paradise for the mountain bikers who love Cross Country and Freeride stiles. There are numerous tourist paths, which will take you to unforgettable sites, probably dwelled by nymphs and wood – ghosts in the ancient times.

The region is also magnetic with the 24 chapels around Momchilovtsi. Each one of them was built in honor of some saint patron. On the day of the saint local people are organizing great fairs. And I was in front of “St Dimitar” chapel when I realized that it wass late in the afternoon. I didn’t want to leave this incredible place but I really had to go. I started the car and a nock of birds flied off to the sunset with me.