When the sun above Nessebar goes down

Georgi Georgiev

There are numerous resorts along the Bulgarian Black seaside, and few of them are claimed to be symbols of Bulgaria. One of them is Nessebar with its old town, famous windmill, jolly trains traveling down Nessebar and Sunny Bay on and on, the ruins left from ancient times, the narrow streets, the old houses and the street-stalls with souvenirs.

Old Nesssebar is included in UNESCO list. The town is only 850 m long and 350 m wide but the number of monuments of culture is countless. The legend says that there were 40 churches. Now there are 26 registered temples. The story is not about the cultural heritage of Nessebar, but about the town itself. Each narrow street, every old wooden house and every thousand-year old stone has its own story and they are part of the unique atmosphere of the town. I was in Nessebar several times. During the high summer season and during the winter as well and I can tell that this site is wonderful in any time of year. I can wander by myself around the desert streets or stroll arownd, surrounded by thousands of tourist and I’m always fascinated by Nessebar.

It was the beginning of July when I was in Nessebar for the last time and was enchanted again. I walked my favorite route from the park in the new town through the alley connecting the old and the new town. I accept this walk аs an evening ritual that I perform with respect to this fairy site.

My walk started from the bench in the park, as usual. I spent some time staring at the old town and the alley, flooded of the light of the setting sun. The wings of the windmill were rising at the foreground. The statue of the ancient fisherman was standing up from the sea, on the other side of the alley. The masts of the yachts, berthed in the port, were swinged by the wind and an old sailor announced the schedule of the ship from Nessebar to Sveti Vlas.

I took my way to the old town. The best part of the road was the road itself. The alley is about 500 m long and it is definitely one of the most pleasant sites I have ever walking on. The famous windmill was the first thing that welcomes the visitors of Nessebar and gives some Don Quixote’s mood. The wide sand stripe of Sunny Beach and the luxury hotels of Sunny Beach and Sveti Vlas were merging from the other side of the bay. But it was not the hotels that I was interested in, at that moment. I saw a girl and a boy, not far away from me, stepping the sea. Although I’m not very sentimental this nice looking couple the romantic image of Nessebar complete. I couldn’t resist the temptation so I made some photos while they were having the time of their life in the water. After that I reached the entrance of the Old Nessebar. The ruins of the ancient town are well preserved and it is obvious that the ancient Mesambria and the medieval Mesamvria (lately Nessebar) was an impressive town that kept its spirit till nowadays. When I crossed the Western gate the town embraced me.

There were so many tourists walking all around, taking photos, stopping at the street-stalls, passing by or sitting in the cafes. Literary I was wandering around the streets, like it was my first time, sightseeing and photographing, as I heard some “halloo…” behind my back. I turned around and I saw the girl I photographed in the sea. I don’t know was it by accident or by the destiny’s will but the girl was named after the sea – Marina. The formal acquaintance quickly turned into a friendly chat. She was very attractive and she came from another Bulgarian town that I like very much – Kazanlak. We talked about Kazanlak, Nessebar, mutual friends, and we separated with the prmice that we’ll meet again in her town. The idea that the boy was probably her boyfriend made me a little sad, but everything is in the hands of destiny. And her invitation to Kazanlak was very enticing as well.

I left the “sea girl” at the background of my mind and I went on my Nessebar tour. I was walking through the crowd and suddenly I found myself in a dessert narrow street. The sky could be hardly seen through the roofs of the old wooden houses. Here I felt the eternity and I realized why I love the town so mush. This is an unique place where, just several metres away from the crowd and the stir, you can find some calm places, where time has stopped and silence rules. It is hard to be described but there is a magic hovering above Nessebar. I went on through the town and everything was interesting and exciting. A painter was sketching a portrait, a sad mime was entertaining people, passing by. Near by the sea a young nipper with an accordion was praising the waves. I remembered the slogan of a famous advertisement festival – “The more things you see, the more ideas you get”. Old Nessebar can offer you a lot.

Before I leave I dedicated several frames to the sun, setting above the sea town, and I continued along the alley with the sun. I was seen off by the statue of the ancient fisherman, the gentle sound of the waves and the glance of a girl with a sunlight in her hair. Of course the next evening I came back.